Is Tucumán already a gastronomic hub, or is there something missing?

Empanadas, tamales, and humitas mark the palate's pulse in a province where food is identity, memory, and celebration. But in recent years, something else has been brewing in Tucumán's kitchens. New restaurants, signature bars, gourmet markets, and exciting fairs invite us to ask whether the province is on its way to becoming a gastronomic hub, or whether it already is. What does it take for that to happen? Is a culinary tradition enough, or does it require infrastructure, investment, diversity, and planning?

Specialists, entrepreneurs, and diners offer their perspectives on a scene transforming between local flavors, foreign influences, and an increasingly demanding clientele.

In the opinion of chef Ramón González, the answer is resounding: "Tucumán is already the gastronomic hub of northern Argentina." His statement is based on a transformation he himself experienced in the kitchen: “There have been many changes in recent years. The province's gastronomy has become more professional. 15 years ago, the scope we have today didn't exist, and young people have a wide-open horizon to explore.”

The potential, he says, lies in the creative, studious people, and also in the fertile soil. “You can't import items and ingredients from other countries in this economic climate; you have to work with local producers and their quality products. We have a blessed province with fertile soil to find everything you need. With a little creativity and imagination, locals offer tremendous things,” he asserts.

González also highlights a change in the logic of dishes. “The cuisine has changed; the natural product is showcased, the cut of meat is fully displayed, and everything else embellishes the plate. The cuisine that masked flavors no longer exists; we even cook healthier,” he affirms.

Fresh and Quality

Along the same lines, Álvaro Arismendi—chef and restaurant owner—focuses on the local economy. “I've always sought to work with local products for many reasons. First, to have fresh, top-quality products. But the main objective is to boost the economy of local producers,” he explains. And he points out a structural point: “Our central market, Mercofrut, brings products from all over the country. It would be good if the Mercado del Norte (Northern Market) focused on local producers in its new openings.”

Arismendi believes that Tucumán has a long way to go, but also a lot of work to do. “We have many more products than many countries that are top-of-the-range in gastronomy. Tucumán is becoming a gastronomic hub, but we have a lot of work to do,” he warns.

Expert Vision

Renowned Chef Narda Lepes shared her vision during her recent visit to Tucumán: “Every place has the potential to become a gastronomic hub. I think there are very good things happening here, and the best thing is to have events like the Gastronomy Congress so producers and chefs can meet and interact; so all the key players can collaborate.”

The dialogue between those who cook, those who produce, and those who consider gastronomy as part of a cultural and economic identity offers a glimpse of opportunity. The question is no longer whether Tucumán has potential. The question, perhaps, is how to turn that potential into a sustained policy, transforming pride into work and flavor into development.

Challenges

When it comes to innovation, Julio Liendo, a young chef from Tucumán, recognizes that the path is not easy. “In the world, it's a bit difficult to confront culture and be disruptive. You have to go step by step, little by little, because it's a long process,” he says.

From his kitchen, however, he experiments with combinations that reinterpret traditional flavors from the province with modern techniques. “We try to implement different things in my restaurant, like combining pork with apple and celery, which isn't common in Tucumán kitchens. But reworking and replacing the celery with mayonnaise is the Tucumán touch we find in every home,” he explains.

Liendo believes that Tucumán is already a culinary reference point. He also believes events should be held that bring together industry leaders, as he believes they are essential to highlighting the transformation: “They serve to show that beautiful things are being opened to the public. That's very attractive for everyone, here and outside of Tucumán.”

An Outsider's View

Identity, projection, and regional learning create a universe of opportunities.

Based on his experience as a Peruvian chef, Adán Reymundo closely observes the region's present and future. "Tucumán and northern Argentina have quite ample potential for achieving good gastronomy," he asserts.

At the same time, he proposes reviewing certain habits. "I think that people from Tucumán, in addition to focusing on Milanese sandwiches and empanadas, should look to something much more elaborate, such as, for example, locro. They eat it on special days, and I think it should be a dish found in restaurants. I feel the same way about humita. It's a very rich dish, not only in flavor, but also because of everything it embodies as an identity and how inclusive it is. Vegetarians and celiacs can eat it," he emphasizes.

For Reymundo, part of the work is revaluing what's ours, even when the climate seems adverse. “These are dishes that are eaten hot. Summers are intense here, but in Peru we have very warm regions, and we eat mote soup all year round, chicken broth, or patasca. It's a custom. The climate influences what we eat, but we also have to understand that our bodies will reach a certain temperature, and it won't go beyond that if we eat hot dishes,” he explains with a laugh.

“Gourmet Stew”

The chef warns that the Tucumán public remains traditionalist, although with the potential to open up to new experiences. “I could combine and experiment with new flavors. If I open a fusion restaurant, the visitors who would come would likely be Tucumán residents who have traveled and eaten in different places. There are very few of them,” the specialist emphasizes. Therefore, his message to entrepreneurs in the sector is clear: “Always try to break away from the traditional: make a milanesa or a gourmet stew.”

He also gave his opinion on the delicate balance between economy and gastronomic quality. “Argentina is experiencing a crisis, but that can't be reflected in prices. It doesn't have to be too expensive or too cheap. Although there are places that take advantage and charge diners just to sit down. Business owners should charge for the experience they provide,” he warns.

And he offers a reflection on regional products and the coordination needed to boost the sector: “This province has sugar and lemon producers who export to the world. What strikes me is that this isn't seen on the shelves. Where are the lemons from Tucumán? Because they don't reach homes or restaurants. It doesn't just happen here. It also happens in my country. Producers, business owners, and the government must work together to achieve what Peru has achieved globally as a gastronomic hub. It took approximately two decades of constant work for my country to become a global gastronomic trend for 10 consecutive years.”

In a province where culinary tradition has always been important, the current challenge seems to be different. Transforming this legacy into a development strategy capable of generating employment, identity, and economic growth. Will flavor be enough? Or will it take more than just enthusiasm and good cooking?

(Source: La Gaceta)