The flavor of the Calchaquí Valleys: history and tradition of tafinisto cheese

Everyone should visit the Calchaquí Valleys at least once in their lives. Traveling through its landscapes, discovering its history, and tasting its diverse gastronomy are unique experiences. In this last theme, food, there is a star, a food that stands out for being a tradition that spans generations, a history shaped by time and the climate: cheese.

It doesn't matter if you are in the center of Tafí del Valle or on the side of Route 307. You will likely find a sign offering this product anywhere. And they are all good! The fact is that Tafí cheeses keep in each bite the legacy of the old producers, who, with artisanal techniques, managed to turn the dish into a symbol of rural identity.

Now, how did cheese come to be installed in the Valleys? To unravel this mystery, you must fasten your seatbelts and begin a journey to the past. Precisely in 1585, with the arrival of the first Jesuits toTucumán. They came to evangelize, but they also contributed to production: the Society of Jesus, a religious order founded in the 16th century, not only dedicated itself to spreading religion to the native peoples but also developed a notable agricultural and livestock activity in the territories where it was established. They introduced sugar cane and the production of “M” (Manchego) cheeses, so-called because they came from the region of La Mancha in Spain.

When the Jesuits arrived in Tucumán, according to the stories of the time, they fell in love with the green and implemented a productive model based on estancias, large extensions of land where cattle were raised and various products were grown. Cheese production emerged as part of this strategy since raising cows and goats allowed for obtaining milk in abundance. Inspired by European techniques, the Jesuits began to make cheeses that not only served to supply the missions and indigenous communities but were also sold in other regions of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata.

Why cheese? Because of conservation. At a time when there were no refrigeration systems, cheese represented an efficient way to preserve milk and ensure nutritious food for long periods. In addition, cheese production fit in with the self-sufficient model they promoted in their reductions, where they taught the indigenous people not only religion but also agricultural techniques and trades that allowed them to sustain themselves economically.

Although the Jesuits left the province in 1767 (when they were expelled), the tradition continues to this day. All the techniques they introduced were adopted by the local inhabitants, who continued to make cheeses with a marked artisanal seal. In the Calchaquí Valleys, production was adapted to the climatic and geographical conditions of the area, giving rise to varieties with particular flavors and textures.

This is how we arrived at today. Cheese is part of the gastronomic identity of the area, so much so that there has been an activity that pays tribute to it for decades. The National Cheese Festival is the favorite festival of the summer. It is celebrated in February and brings together the current artists of national and provincial folklore. In addition, traditional activities are held such as the Tafinisto Cheese Contest, the election of the Donosa ("lovely woman") of the Festival, the presentation of the Golden Cheese, the parade of gaucho groups, and the exhibition of Creole skills.